BGI Premium Plant Foods

Year: 2014

  • How to Diagnose Your Plants Nutrient Deficiency

    How to Diagnose Your Plants Nutrient Deficiency

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    If you suspect your plant is lacking vigor, color or appears weak and growing abnormally, chances are nutrient deficiency is the culprit. It is necessary to examine the specific symptoms and the growing environment. Soil, water and tissue testing will not only confirm the cause but will also recommend corrective actions. BGI recently introduced diagnostic testing and recommendations to address these very issues our customers may face.

    Nutrient deficiency symptoms are broadly categorized by location on the plant: old growth and new growth.

    OLD GROWTH:

    • Nitrogen Deficiency: Uniform yellowing of entire surface of older, lower leaves.
    • Phosphorous Deficiency: Lower older leaves appear purple or dramatically smaller and greener.
    • Potassium Deficiency: Lower leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) or marginal necrosis (death) that may occur along the entire leaf surface.
    • Magnesium Deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis on the older leaves usually beginning along the margin.

    NEW GROWTH:

    • Iron Deficiency: Uniform interveinal chlorosis on upper leaves and new growth.
    • Manganese Deficiency: Symptoms are almost identical to Iron deficiency. Interveeinal necrotic spots may form as well.
    • Boron Deficiency: New shoot (Meristem) growth will abort, fall off and cause abnormal growth habit and distorted branching.
    • Calcium Deficiency: New growth foliage exhibits marginal necrosis and chlorosis. Leaves often become misshapen.

    Diagnostic soil testing not only confirms the deficiency, or in some cases the toxicity problem, you can become proactive and avoid future nutritional problems. It can also indicate potential pH problems, where adequate nutrients might be in the soil but are unavailable.

    In South Florida, even though soil nutrient levels may be adequate, Iron and Manganese still are often the deficiency culprits. This is because our high alkaline soils and ground water cause these nutrients to become insoluble and unavailable. Please note they are essential micro nutrients. This means they are absolutely necessary (essential) but in lesser amounts (micro). A soil test and corrective pH application would resolve the deficiency problem.

    So to all of our plant Doctor diagnosticians out there; if you detect a problem, diagnose the symptoms and take corrective action. Even better, like the men and women that grow professionally, take periodic samples and avoid poor growth and sickly plants all together.

    After it’s all said and done, it’s true but trite: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I like to think of it as preventative health care, i.e. avoid the hospital at all costs!

    Get your soil tested today. BGI can help.

    I hope this blog helps, and we at BGI wish only the best success for you and yours!

    Take care,

    Tom

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  • The Black Hole Vortex

    The Black Hole Vortex

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    Although this true story is a bit off base, it is all about what we do, and why we do it. BGI is a fertilizer company. We manufacture, market, distribute and merchandise fertilizer. That is what we do. But that is not why we do it. That is not what inspires and motivates us every day. The “Why” is beauty. Beauty cannot be lost.   Time does not diminish it.   The garden and landscape are perhaps beauty’s greatest masterpieces. BGI people believe that beauty is integral to our lives – not unlike love. Without it the world becomes stark, cold, grey and utterly unbearable. All too often we experience this phenomenon, and it is exhausting. For me this lack of beauty often manifests itself in human form, and the best way I can describe the experience is a black hole vortex. Just such an encounter happened recently.

     

    After being literally “hung-up-on” by a West Palm Beach garden center owner on two separate occasions – the second time resulting in tears at BGI, I decided to find out what we have done to offend. After all, in my 30+ years running 5 different businesses, this was a first…and second. And although it was different individuals on the BGI end each time, it was the same discourteous owner. I sensed there was something to be learned here. In instances like these, I try to be philosophical and know this experience is a “Learning moment” and has been sent as a guide from beyond. I try to be grateful for even the malice that comes.

    And malice cloaked in a shroud of arrogance and disdain permeated the body language and gestures as our conversation commenced one late afternoon. This man clearly had contempt in his heart and a “Zero- sum” mind set. It was immediately revealed the notion of two reasonable men sitting down at a table to work things was not going to happen. At this point I simply stated why I drove 3 hours to see him, how important it was to me, and the impact it had – his karmic poison..if you will. In between his constant dodges of deflection and outright denial, I simply asked for courtesy in the future and let us serve his business any way we can. His response was more extended lecture, subject change, denial and fleeting eyes. Now, I was looking for an exit strategy…where is my car?? My heart hurt. Walking became laborious. I instantly felt completely drained. It was as if a human negative gravity vortex was sucking the life right out of me. Have you ever felt that way when encountering someone? I quickly ended the seemingly empty monologue, thanked him for his words and departed. Two days later pondering the West Palm Beach garden center experience, I discovered a few gifts realized from this stark encounter:

    1. ATTENTION- Attention is respect. Be completely present when engaging someone. To not do so is ugly and dark.
    2. HUMILITY- Stay humble. Arrogance is weak and pathetic.
    3. INTEGRITY- Absolute integrity is a must in our lives. To deceive is an act of betrayal. Cannot we be honest?
    4. COMPASSION- Even when confronting malice and disdain, bathe your heart in compassion. Because of his severe compassion, no institution could contain Jesus Christ. We should try to do the same.

    Mary Oliver wrote a poem that resonates when contemplating difficult experiences and lessons such as these:

    Someone I loved once gave me
    a box full of darkness.
    It took me years to understand
    that this, too, was a gift.

    When someone gives you a box full of darkness, it is a gift. Thank them and show them compassion. Their world is stark and cold. Plant some light and beauty in their lives if you can. This is the “Why” at BGI. Please join us.

    In such ugly times, the only true protest is beauty. Phil Ochs

    In closing; you can call it Karmic, or you can call it Newton’s Third Law of action and reaction, or you can call it whatever a man soweth so shall he reap, it is a law of our world. When human vortices try to suck you in, remember this story of the garden center owner. He doesn’t understand. You do. Show compassion. It’s law, and there is no downside.

    P.S.   Beauty will save the world.

    But who will save beauty? Dostoevsky

    Thank you for listening. I hope this helps. Protest the vortices and save beauty!!

    Take care,

    Tom

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  • A Critical Key to Your Garden’s Success

    A Critical Key to Your Garden’s Success

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    Unlocking the potential to a successful garden begins with soil testing. This entails taking representative physical soil samples within your garden or landscape to determine the pH level and nutrient content.

    WHY SOIL TEST?

    First, to create a beautiful garden or prolific plants; like a high performance athlete your garden requires specific nutrients in specific amounts at critical growth stages. If you don’t test, how are you going to know?

    Second, to protect the environment, available soil nutrient levels and plant needs must be known. To not test and not know invites the probability of over fertilizing or creating nutrient imbalances. This results in added expense and potential environmental degradation to our waterways and aquifers.

    Third, to obtain maximum plant health, proper nutrient ratios or correct relative amounts to one another must be maintained. Without testing, this is impossible. Incorrect nutrient balance ends up in poor plant performance, aesthetics and yield. Plant toxicity and nutrient runoff can result. Avoid these pitfalls.

    Fourth, pH or the measure of the soil’s acidity is critical in determining nutrient availability. Most vegetables and ornamentals prefer a slightly acid soil pH 6-7. Iron and Manganese deficiencies are common in vegetable and ornamental plants in high alkaline or high pH soils. If your pH is not correct, nutrients become less available. Why fertilize if it’s not available? How are you going to know? Test.

    Fifth, plants require 17 essential nutrients to maintain proper growth and development. In plant nutrient management there is “Liebig’s Law.” This law simply states that yield is proportional to the amount of the most limiting nutrient, whichever nutrient it may be. How are you going to be sure no nutrients are limiting without a test?

    BMP’s

    Universities and commercial growers have developed over the last 20 years what we call “Best Management Practices” or BMP’s. At the top of the BMP list is soil testing. Higher profitability, higher quality plants, increased efficiencies, reduced potential pollution are reasons professionals test regularly.

    SIMPLE

    Achieving success be it color or beauty or big fat juicy tomatoes is simply a matter of following a few common sense practices. One of those practices is soil testing. You don’t have to be a soil scientist, a chemist or plant pathologist to reap your landscape and garden rewards, but you do have to take soil tests and utilize the recommendations.

    In conclusion,

    What doesn’t get measured doesn’t get done is an old saying in the business world, and it is true in nutrient management as well. To not spend more money than necessary; to avoid creating chemical and nutrient imbalances in the soil; to not potentially degrade the environment; and to have the most beautiful garden and landscape possible – regular soil testing is required. It is simple and the “ROI” is huge!

    Because soil testing is such a significant practice in our customer’s success, BGI now offers complete soil testing services and recommendations. I strongly urge everyone to soil test and test regularly. It is a critical key in growing success – just ask any professional or commercial grower. Learn more about finding out what your garden needs by reaching out to BGI. Soil testing is a BMP, and one step closer to creating that beauty we all long for! After all,

    “Beauty seen makes the one who sees it more beautiful.” David Steindl-Rast

    Take care and get tested!

    Tom

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  • Fall Gardening is Here!

    Fall Gardening is Here!

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    It’s September, which means fall gardening is here!  Not only am I looking forward to seeing color on my bougainvillea again, but I’m excited to start planting my cool weather vegetables like eggplant, spinach, and broccoli.  For those with vegetable gardens, preparing for fall gardening begins by:

    • Taking out any remaining veggie plants.
    • Thoroughly weeding your garden and yard.
    • Adding fresh soil, compost, or manures and turning and aerating the soil.
    • Introducing a new tribe of earthworms to your garden soil to help the enrichment process.

    For bougainvillea, the first week in September should be the last time you prune or perform a hard cut.  Prepare your bougainvillea for shorter days and cooler nights by:

    • Beginning to cut down on the amount of water for your bougainvillea.  Less water, cooler and longer evening will induce flower bud set and help to enhance bract production – which means more color.
    • Water your bougainvillea when the top inch of the soil is dry, and then water only sparingly.
    • Once buds appear, water as needed, and apply Bougain fertilizer monthly.

    For those living in zones 8 and below, prepare to bring your bougainvillea indoors.  Perform your last hard prune this month, and start to think about where you will keep your bougainvillea indoors.  Any space which doesn’t freeze will be fine for your bougainvillea while indoors.  Learn more about wintering over your bougainvillea on our website, so you’ll have a healthy bougainvillea plant for next Spring!

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  • The Language of Plants

    The Language of Plants

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    Claims that plants are able to feel, communicate, listen and react were first made over 150 years ago. Intriguing research was performed in the 1960’s by CIA interrogation specialist and pioneer, Cleve Backster. With a modified polygraph machine, Backster was able to measure emotional response patterns in plants when subjected to external stimulation like watering. Today, mainstream science generally states that because plants lack a central nervous system, they have no sensation of pain or other emotions.

    Perhaps you think the notion of plants having feelings is “LA LA LAND.” Skepticism is healthy. Believe nothing, until you have been convinced it is true. But please don’t close your mind. Humans can see only a small portion of light and only hear a narrow frequency of sound. Our sense of smell is rudimentary at best. Most of what exists is invisible to us. So let’s question everything but keep an open mind to the possibilities that lay before us in this amazing world we inhabit. We see so little.

    In 1983 two studies documented that willow, poplar and sugar maple trees can warn each other of attacking insects. Using volatile organic compounds (VOC’s), not only could their neighbors be made aware of marauding predators coming, they in turn could release more VOC’s that repel the intruders. Wait, trees can speak, listen and interpret, not only among species but intra-species as well???

    It appears so, but the scientific community was not convinced and called it bunk. So, muted by the rigidity of Darwinian Theory, no one heard the flora’s perfumed cloud of conversation. The plants continued to speak and listen and fight the good fight. Another plant pioneer, Ted Farmer discovered plants also communicate with electrical impulses. Zoologist David Rhodes in the 1980’s discovered voltage changes in the tissue of Arabidopsis Thaliana as Egyptian Cotton Leaf worms were released to consume the plant’s leaves. Simultaneously, Jasmonal acid was produced and acted as ion regulation receptors – like animal systems that relay sensory signals throughout the body. Did I mention Rhodes is a zoologist, i.e. the study of animal life, and drew parallels to plant and animal nervous systems??? He also found Sitica Willows reducing nutritional leaf tissue quality when attacked by caterpillars and web worms. These worms consequently grew slower. What is really cool is neighboring trees heard about the attack, and although they were not invaded, reduced their nutritional leaf quality as well. Still, the research establishment and eminent biologists were not convinced and picked the studies apart. The notion that plants are sentient beings on some level through multiple communication pathways again fell on deaf ears. Then in 2000 another study came to light documenting Sagebrush plants whose leaves were clipped and consequently became resistant to herbivores. The VOC compound released again not only worked on the same species but others as well. Neighboring Tobacco plants emitted the defensive enzyme Polyphenol Oxidase to thwart any oncoming attacks. This kind of thing, interspecies communication, throws Darwin on his ear – or nose if you will! Researchers suggest that plants may be eavesdropping rather than actively listening. The VOC’s are a language of scents where compounds are combined to form words and sentences and effective communication. Biologists have not come close to deciphering this code.

    BURY THE TELEPHONE LINES

    In Israel at Ben-Gurion University researchers produced convincing evidence of communication through root systems. Pea plants were put into a drought stress. Naturally, stomata closed. The fascinating thing was within an hour, although neighboring pea plants were not under any drought induced water stress, these plants shut down their stomata as well. Researchers are convinced it is a root exudate, a chemical, most likely ABA or Abscissic acid.

    BIO-INTERNET

    Other researchers published in Ecology Letters, July 2013 documented plants using an underground network of connecting fungi to effectively communicate. This bio-internet connects plant roots together via an intricate web of hyphae into common myclelial networks (CMN). This beneficial mycorrhizal fungi provides Nitrogen and Phosphorous nutrients to the roots in exchange for sugars. Now however, an added benefit to this already synergistic relationship is an incredibly effective way to communicate over distances between plants.

    ACOUSTICS

    Corn plants make clicking sounds when roots find moisture, and as a result, other roots begin growing towards the moisture. Did you hear that?

    PLANT TO ANIMAL FACETIME

    Plants can talk to insects as well. Maize attacked by Armyworms can send out VOC’s attracting predatory wasps that lay eggs in the caterpillar bodies. Hummingbirds, ants, microbes, moths and even tortoises react to these VOC’s.

    Are you a believer yet? Can you admit to the possibility of plants as sentient beings on some level? It has been demonstrated plants communicate quite effectively through many channels: airborne volatiles, root contact, fungal networks, acoustics, chemically and electronically. Respected scientists that denied these communication pathways a few years ago would hard-pressed to do so today. Darwinian evolutionists cannot explain how complex communication systems and networks exist between different species, let alone plants and animals.

    I propose the notion, the possibility, based on clear evidence that intelligent design may be at work here. IJS. Open your eyes, ears, nose, heart and mind. We sense so little and know much less. What’s truly amazing is that any of this exists at all. It is truly magnificent to consider the possibilities and imagine. Oh, imagination? No, we better not go there. It can’t be measured, and it just doesn’t fit, and we can’t control it.

    P.S.

    1920-albert-einstein-728x409

    P.P.S Wake up and smell the coffee…coffee plants!:))

    Take care,

    Tom

     

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  • Sodium In Plant Production – Good Guy or Bad Guy?

    Sodium In Plant Production – Good Guy or Bad Guy?

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    In animals, Sodium (Na) is an “Essential” element. It plays a central role in electrolyte and ion balance in body fluids and tissues. In plants however, Na is the most predominating problem salt and can cause toxicity. We often consider it a waste product that is pervasive in our soils and waters. While Na may not be necessary to completing the life cycle of a plant; i.e. “Essential” nutrient,” it can increase growth rates, yields and reduce Potassium (K) critical level needs. Scientists have labeled elements like Na as “Functional” nutrients. “Functional” nutrients are those which are crucial to maximizing yield or in reducing critical levels of an “Essential” nutrient like Potassium (K) by partially replacing it.

    Na is a “Functional” nutrient.

    Typically our mental reference to Na in plant nutrition and culture is toxicity, necrosis, tip burn, chlorosis, scorching, bronzing and even death. It is something we are taught to avoid if at all possible at any level or concentration. Most of us have been taught no Na is the goal, but in fact, this is not the case at all. While plant species vary widely in Na uptake and translocation capabilities, what we usually read or hear about is plants subjected to very high Na concentrations in the root zone. There it is translocated to the tops which reduces growth and can cause death. However at proper levels, Na plays some major beneficial roles in plant metabolism including:

    • Chlorophyll synthesis
    • Turgor pressure, osmotic potential and cell expansion
    • Reducing critical levels of K
    • Stomatal function
    • Nutrient transport
    • Enzyme activation
    • Growth stimulation

    The processes listed above are beyond the scope of this blog. Suffice it to say Na function and metabolism in the plant is vast and still largely unresolved. Na is not an “Essential” element, but it is a “Functional” one. In fact, Na is an “Essential” element in some C4 plant species like corn and sugar cane. That is, it is required to complete the life cycle. None the less, much research indicates Na significantly stimulates growth in many plant species, even when K is adequate. Research also indicates K critical levels are reduced in the presence of Na in many crops. Growth rate and nutrient utilization and efficiency are positively affected by Na.

    Whether it is increased chlorophyll production in spinach or lettuce, or increased tomato yields, or improved taste in carrots or sweetness in watermelons and citrus, or higher yields in broccoli, cotton, barley, carrots and many other crops, Na is not the bad guy. It is a “Functional” nutrient. It is an element that can increase yield, increase quality and increase disease resistance in some species.

    The point of this blog is to help the reader understand there is more to plant nutrition and culture than N, P & K. Plants require a balanced diet of not only the “Essential” nutrients but also the “Functional” ones. These nutrients are required in varying amounts. It is a dynamic system with elements interacting with each other, the water, the soil and the plant species in production. Na can be extremely beneficial to plant quality, characteristics and performance.   Who would have thought Na could be a good guy?

    Address your nutritional program needs on a species specific basis. Know your beginning nutrient levels, water quality and characteristics. Use complete plant foods and fertilizers that not only consider the “Essential” nutrients but also the “Functional” ones.

    At BGI, species specific complete balanced and available nutrient plant foods is our design. It’s what we do. Why do we do It? We believe that without beauty life would be intolerable. That beauty is as necessary as sunlight and oxygen to our health and survival. We believe beauty is a divine presence and an “Essential” element to human existence. BGI believes in creating or helping to create beauty in all aspects of our lives, be it in the natural landscape or on the harshest edges of our existence. Why? Because beauty is the ultimate food…soul food! I’m starving!

    Take care,

    Tom

    P.S. If you don’t agree with this blog, go pound Salt

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  • Magnesium – Plant Nutrition’s Step Child?

    Magnesium – Plant Nutrition’s Step Child?

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    Not all plant problems are caused by disease and insects. Nutrient deficiencies in plants result in reduced growth, reduced yield, lower quality and aesthetics, reduced flowering and fruiting. Fertilizers correct nutrient deficiencies in plants. Following is a perhaps “dry” discussion about Magnesium and its’ role in plant growth yield and success. Often it is the little things in the background that seldom get noticed or recognized in life yet do the “Heavy Lifting” and are essential to success. In the life of a plant, Magnesium deserves more recognition.

    Magnesium (Mg) is considered a secondary element required for plant growth. The term “Secondary” describes relative nutrient quantity but not importance. As we know from “Liebig’s Law” (previous posts), a “Secondary” nutrient deficiency is just as destructive to plant growth, quality and yield as one of the three primary nutrients (N, P, K). Yet Magnesium is often overlooked and adversely affecting both quality and yield of ornamental and agronomic species.
    NO MAGNESIUM – NO LIFE
    Magnesium is the eighth most abundant element in the earth’s crust, and the fourth most abundant metal ion in cells. It is present in every cell type in every organism. Magnesium is essential to the well being of all organisms. So much for “Secondary”, right? It is the central atom in the chlorophyll molecule. Chlorophyll is a pigment that makes plants green and creates photosynthesis. Magnesium roles in the plant include:
    • The coordinating ion in the chlorophyll molecule, thus making photosynthesis possible.
    • ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is the primary energy source in cells. ATP to be active and available must be bound to a Magnesium ion.
    • Magnesium regulates uptake of other materials in the plant. It acts as a carrier of Phosphorous to seeds. Magnesium aids in production of proteins, fats and vitamins. Magnesium plays a role in starch translocation or movement within the plant.

    Many factors affect Magnesium availability, and we should be aware of these variables. They include:

    • Soil Magnesium content – how much is already in the soil?
    • pH – Magnesium is more available at higher pH’s or less acid soils.
    • Other factors include Manganese/Magnesium ratio, Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), Potassium (K) and Calcium (Ca) and cation competition, cool soil temperatures.

    Plants differ by species and variety in Magnesium needs. High response food crops include: blueberry, beet, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, corn, cucumber, eggplant, lettuce, onion, spinach, squash, tomato and watermelon.

    SYMPTOMS
    Magnesium is a mobile nutrient taken up by the roots. The first observable sign is a depressed rate of photosynthesis or growth. Next is carbohydrate immobility. This is where sugars are produced in the leaves but cannot be transported throughout the plant. Sufficient Magnesium levels are required to maximize carbohydrate transport to “Sink” organs in the plant like seeds, roots and fruit. This promotes higher yields and growth. Due to the lack of mobility, visual symptoms of interveinal chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins) occur in the older, lower leaves first. In citrus, this symptom is referred to as “Bronzing.”

    FERTILIZER SOURCES
    Soil testing is the best method to measure nutrient availability, determine crop needs and receive specific recommendations. Dolomitic Limestone is most commonly used to correct both Magnesium deficiency and acidity or pH levels. Other materials to correct Magnesium deficiency include:

    • Potassium Magnesium Sulfate (Sul-Po- Mag)
    • Magnesium Nitrate
    • Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salts)
    • Chelates – These are well suited for foliar application and often plants will respond more quickly.

    Talking to growers, farmers, nurserymen and garden center managers about nutrient management and plant nutrition I have noticed that the importance of Magnesium is often misunderstood. And here’s the thing – it is critical to all life, well being, health and appearance. Be it photosynthesis (not “Secondary” in anyone’s book), protein synthesis, carbohydrate transport to vital areas in the plant, and ATP or energy production within the plant cell. And plant species have different nutritional needs. All Plants require certain “Essential” nutrients in adequate, balanced and available amounts. BGI products are about providing these nutritional goals. Our products are designed to provide proper nutrition, so the plant and the grower can experience growth, beauty, yield and satisfaction. Let BGI help your plants reach their potential and allow you, or your customer to harvest satisfaction and joy in the process!

    Take care,

    Tom

    P.S. It’s pretty cool I think that many of the human “Super Foods” just happen to be high in our stepchild, Magnesium like spinach (dark leafy greens!), almonds, avocados and dark chocolate! Maybe there is a message here…..? I think so.

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  • Is Organic Sustainable?

    Is Organic Sustainable?

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    I am not taking sides on the debate whether commercial organic production is sustainable.  The purpose of this discussion is to simply state some facts that hopefully cause the reader to really think about and learn before drawing any conclusions.  You must decide or decide not to decide.  Sometimes I come to the realization that I don’t know what I don’t know.  In this case, however I think I’m a little like Forrest Gump; “Maybe it’s both.”

    I’ll leave the definition of “Organic” up to you.  There are dozens. “Sustainability” is however succinctly  defined  by Dr. Ikerd at the University of Missouri as: “An agriculture that uses up or degrades its natural resource base, or pollutes the natural environment, eventually will lose its ability to produce…a sustainable agriculture must be all three – ecologically sound, economically viable and socially responsible.  And the three must be in harmony.”  The three key words are ecological, economical and responsible.

    I think it’s safe to say the general public is convinced organic farming is more sustainable, and conventional agriculture is not.  In fact, the World Watch Institute says organic farming “has the potential to contribute to sustainable food security by improving nutrition intake and sustaining livelihoods in rural areas while simultaneously reducing vulnerability to climate change and enhancing biodiversity.”

    Following is some evidence to consider before drinking the Kool-Aid:

    1) The Ben Gurion University in Israel recently published a study analyzing nitrate leachate concentrations in groundwater in conventional farming versus organic (compost fertilized) production systems.  Nitrate concentration profiles beneath the organic production area averaged 724 mg. per liter; under the conventional it was 38 mg. per liter.  EPA says safe drinking water should have a maximum of 10 mg per liter.  I’m not drawing any conclusions, but ecologically speaking, elevated nitrate levels in ground water are not indicators of sustainability.

    2) A study published in the “Proceedings of National Academy of Sciences” concludes organic farming methods lead to increased carbon sequestration or adding carbon to the soil.  This is a great thing! However, these methods were discovered and perfected 75 years ago.  Today there are much more sustainable ways to add carbon to the soil and avoid creating a monstrous carbon footprint.  Composted manure and other organic materials generate methane, nitrous oxide and carbon dioxide.  Unfortunately, methane is 21 times and nitrous oxide 295 times as much greenhouse effect gas as carbon dioxide.  Conventional methods of cover cropping and no till systems are more sustainable.

    3) Currently organic farming yields 20-50% less than conventional methods.  Think about this for a moment.  If organic methods were implemented:

    1. Up to twice as much land would have to be converted, i.e. deforestation, to farm land.
    2. Up to twice as much water would be consumed as a result of increased acreage.  Given the drought across the western U.S. and aquifer deficits, this may not be considered a water conservation strategy.

    This would certainly not be considered a move towards increased sustainability.  A study in the British Journal of Environmental Management found ammonia emissions, nitrate leaching and nitrous oxide emissions were higher utilizing organic production methods than conventional farming systems, as were “land use, eutrophication potential and acidification potential.”

    1. Scalable organic production requires mechanical weed control or tillage.  Tillage is also required to incorporate organic fertilizers or composts and manure into the soil.  However, the best approach to improving soil quality, increasing carbon levels or organic matter is what conventional agriculture calls no-till or minimum-till.  These systems are not possible under an organic regime.    As a result, the potential for erosion, leaching, run-off, volatilization and environmental degradation is apparent.

     2. The reason I hesitate to define “Organic” is in today’s mainstream media and academia it is a bit Orwellian and Double-Speak.  Let me give you two examples of “Organic” insecticides:

    1. Rotenone – while it is plant derived, it is extremely toxic to fish and is commercially used as a fish killer or a pisicide.
    2. Nicotine Sulfate – is extremely toxic to warm-blooded animals and causes birth defects.  Also, it’s been a while since my college inorganic chemistry class, but I believe sulfates are salts and very inorganic.

    A couple other facts that may urge you to at least question the norm:

    1. A study in the journal “Tree Physiology” recently published shows native Red Oaks in New York City grew 8-10 times faster than the same trees in the Hudson Valley.  It’s hot in the city!
    2. Scientists at the Smithsonian have shown trees along the Eastern Seaboard are growing faster as a direct result of increased carbon dioxide levels.  More carbon dioxide, more food?  Just asking…
    3. Carbon dioxide levels today are 400ppm in the atmosphere.  400 million years ago they were 4000ppm.  You would assume based upon what you’ve been told that global warming, sea levels, temperatures would have been rising off the charts.  The problem is there was no global warming 400 million years ago.  There was glaciation occurring.  I’m just saying…

    In conclusion, I simply ask you to revisit the assumptions you may have made about organic farming, organic fertilizers, global warming, greenhouse gas emissions, and agendas certain corporate and political interests may have.  Everyone has an agenda that is driven by control, power and the want of money.  Please ask the questions.  Please do the research.  Please draw your own conclusions. 2+2 still equals 4 but I’m not sure for how much longer.  Just ‘cause they say doesn’t make it so, unless they’re Hitler, or they say it enough times.  I don’t know.  I don’t have the answers.  Do the heavy lifting yourself and think!

    “And that’s all I have to say about that.”

    Take care,

    Tom

     

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  • Bougainvillea 101

    Bougainvillea 101

    [cmsms_row data_width=”boxed” data_padding_left=”3″ data_padding_right=”3″ data_color=”default” data_bg_color=”#ffffff” data_bg_position=”top center” data_bg_repeat=”no-repeat” data_bg_attachment=”scroll” data_bg_size=”cover” data_bg_parallax_ratio=”0.5″ data_color_overlay=”#000000″ data_overlay_opacity=”50″ data_padding_top=”0″ data_padding_bottom=”50″][cmsms_column data_width=”1/1″][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Introduction[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    bou·gain·vil·le·a [boo-guhn-vil-yuh; -vil-ee-uh; boh-]

    The Bougainvillea is an immensely showy, floriferous and hardy plant. Virtually pest-free and disease resistant, it rewards its owner with an abundance of color and vitality when it is well looked after. The bougainvillea’s versatility is legendary. It can be coaxed into a small manageable pot plant or a sizeable tree, to spread itself vertically on a wall, or climb up a trellis and form a luscious crown or burst forth into graceful arches. It makes one of the best hedges, bushes, and curb-liners. And as for bonsai or topiary purposes, it has few equals, lending its complex branching to the pruning shears, which promote even more unique and graceful forms. It is probably true to say that without the bougainvillea, our roads, parks, and private gardens would be a lot less colorful that what we see today. Almost everywhere we go, its brilliant hues and cheerful bursts punctuate the lush green mantle that cloaks our tropical environment. Other flowering plants certainly pale in comparison. [1]

    Along with palms, sunshine, and beaches, the cascading blooms of bougainvillea provide one of Florida’s signature tropical images. As a profuse bloomer, bougainvillea is most striking during the winter, when it is at its peak and few other plants are able to provide color. Although it is frost-sensitive and hardy in zones 9b and 10, bougainvillea can be used as a houseplant or hanging basket in cooler climates. In the landscape, it makes an excellent hot season plant, and its drought tolerance makes bougainvillea ideal for warm climates year-round. Native to the coasts of Brazil, bougainvillea has a high salt tolerance, which makes it a natural choice for south Florida and other coastal regions. As a woody clambering vine, bougainvillea will stand alone and can be pruned into a standard, but it is perfect along fence lines, on walls, in containers and hanging baskets, and as a hedge or an accent plant. Its long arching branches are thorny, and bear heart-shaped leaves and masses of papery bracts in white, pink, orange, purple, and burgundy. Many cultivars, including double flowered and variegated, is available. [2]

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]History of Bougainvillea[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    A native to coastal Brazil, the bougainvillea was discovered in 1768 in Rio de Janeiro by French naturalist Dr. Philibert Commerçon (also sometimes spelled Commerson). The plant is named after his close friend and ship’s admiral Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, who commanded the ship La Boudeuse that sailed around the world between 1766-1769, and in which Commerçon was a passenger.

    Twenty years after Commerçon’s discovery, it was first published as ‘Buginvillea’ in Genera Plantarium by A.L. de Jusseau in 1789. The genus was subsequently split in several ways until it was finally corrected to ‘Bougainvillea’ in the Index Kewensis in the 1930s. Originally, B. spectabilis and B. glabra were hardly differentiated until the mid 1980s when botanists recognized them to be totally distinct species. In early 19th century, these two species were the first to be introduced into Europe, and soon, nurseries in France and England did a thriving trade providing specimens to Australia and other faraway countries. Meanwhile, Kew Gardens distributed plants it had propagated to British colonies throughout the world. Soon thereafter, an important event in the history of bougainvillea took place with the discovery of a crimson bougainvillea in Cartagena, a Spanish port in the Mediterranean, by Mrs. R.V. Butt. Originally thought to be a distinct species, it was named B. buttiana in her honour. However, it was later discovered to be a natural hybrid of a variety of B. glabra and possibly B. peruviana – a “local pink bougainvillea” from Peru. Natural hybrids were soon found to be common occurrences all over the world. For instance, around the 1930s, when the three species were grown together, many hybrid crosses were created almost spontaneously in East Africa, India, the Canary Islands, Australia, North America, and the Philippines.[1]

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Species and Hybrids[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    Scientific classificationKingdom - Plantae
   Division - Magnoliophyta
     Class - Magnoliopsida
       Order - Caryophyllales
         Family - Nyctaginaceae
           Genus - Bougainvillea
             Species - Bougainvillea  spectabilis
                       Bougainvillea glabra
                       Bougainvillea peruviana
                             Cultivar (or variety)

    Bougainvillea spectabilis is a large climber with distinctive curved thorns, and hair on stems and leaves. The bracts are crinkled, fairly large, egg-shaped, and possess colors in the rose, rusty-red, and purple. Flowers are cream in color, slender, with very hairy tubes. Leaves are large, ovate to rounded, leathery in texture and hairy underneath. The bark is pale and corky. Branching is close and short, giving rise to a very dense plant. The first species collected, it was described from dried specimens by Willdenow (1798).

    Bougainvillea glabra has thinner branches that spread in many directions and have distinctive pointed triangle-shaped bracts that come in a range of whites, lilacs, mauves, and purples. Thorns are short, thin, and curved at the tips. Leaves are fairly evenly elliptical, widest about the middle. The small cream flowers are relatively big and tube-shaped. The also tend to flower virtually continuously, and often down the entire length of the branch. Originally described and named by Choisy (1849).

    Bougainvillea peruviana has a branching habit that is looser and more open. This is a climbing, spiny, spreading shrub with greenish bark. Thorns (spines) are thin, straight in youth and curved when older. Leaves are thin and ovate to broadly ovate. The small roundish bracts, usually in light to dark magenta colors, are quite delicate to the touch, and are crinkly in appearance. Flowering is recurrent after strong vegetative growth in response to dry weather. This species was described and named by Humbold and Bonpland (1808).

    Bougainvillea hybrids found today have been grouped into these three hybrid groups:

    • B. x buttiana (glabra x peruviana)
    • B. x spectoperuviana (spectabilis x peruviana)
    • B. x spectoglabra (spectabilis x glabra)

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Growth Cycles[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    The bougainvillea has two distinct growth cycles:

      1. A vegetative growth period for several weeks — when new leaves and stems grow. If the plant receives enough sunlight, the plant will form buds during this time. If there is not enough sunlight, the plant will remain in vegetative cycle and not progress to the blooming period. This is usually the case if bougainvillea are grown as houseplants or brought indoors to winter-over.
      2. A blooming period of several weeks when little or no vegetative growth occurs. The length of time they will display color is dependent upon the health of the plant and the environment they are in; the more sun and heat, the better. With at least 5 hours of direct sunlight per day, a typical, healthy bougainvillea will remain in a blooming period for 3 to 5 weeks.

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h3″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Flowering Season[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvilleas’ natural habitat is equatorial where day and night lengths are almost equal. Bougainvillea in these areas (Singapore, Brazil, Kenya to name a few) tend to bloom year round, but in North America, the best flowering occurs when the night length and day length are almost equal (in Spring or Fall). If you live in the northern states, it’s too cold to grow bougainvillea in the Fall unless they’re housed in warm greenhouses – in which case you can enjoy colorful, blooming bougainvillea in October if you wanted! So depending on which continent or region you reside, it may not be the ideal blooming season for your area. Just because it’s hot doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s flowering season for bougainvillea. Case in point, bougainvillea do not bloom well in South Florida during the summer months (June – August) because of the long days and excessive rainfall. For those of us lucky enough to call South Florida home, you already know that the coolest months of the year (October through March) have the most spectacular show of bougainvillea.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Climate[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea are tropical and must be protected from frost. In Zone 8 and cooler, you are almost limited to growing them in some kind of container unless you treat them as an annual (plant a new plant outdoors each year). Bougainvillea thrives in full sun. At least 5 hours a day of direct sunlight is the minimal light required for good bloom. More hours of direct sun are better. Less than 5 hours and the plant may not bloom very well. If grown indoors, in shade or partial shade, you will have nice vegetative growth, but little or no bloom. If possible, keep your bougainvillea outdoors, and keep in mind that southern exposure is ideal. If placed on a covered porch, screened-in patio or balcony, where the plant receives at least 5 hours of sun each day (afternoon sun is best), then you should see adequate blooms.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h3″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Light Levels[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]As a tropical plant, Bougainvillea requires full sun, or a light level of at least 4000 f.c.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Soil[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea has an extremely fine root system, and should be planted in well-drained soils. Avoid soil mixes with high peat levels and water retention. These types of media retain too much water and will contribute to root rot; be sure to select a well-draining media.[2] The best growing mixture is one that is soil-less. Soil-less media are free of any disease pathogens, insect pests, and weed seeds. They are also generally lightweight and porous, allowing for a well-drained yet moisture-retentive mix. Premixed growing media are available from garden centers. However, be careful not to use peat or peatlite mixes alone. By themselves, these media tend to become compacted, too lightweight, and hard to wet. The greatest problem with peat/peatlite mixes is when the soil dries completely, the root ball will pull away from the side of the pot, and it is almost impossible to completely wet the soil again — the water simply runs down the side of the container and drains out the bottom. If your plant dries out and you use this type of mix, to re-wet it, let the pot sit in a pail of water until the soil ball is completely wet. Before using your mix to re-pot plants, be sure it is damp. Totally dry soil mixture is difficult to handle and may damage tender roots before the plant is watered.[4][/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Fertilization[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_image align=”left” animation_delay=”0″]3387|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/BOUGAIN-2lb-Bag-Bougainvillea-Fertilizer-Bougainvillea-Plant-Food-0-e1470149674875.jpg|full[/cmsms_image][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea are heavy feeders that require regular monthly fertilization during blooming season. Nitrogen and phosphate are critical to flowering, but do not over-fertilize with these two elements because it will add growth and inhibit blooming. This is the case when using generalized fertilizers like a 20-20-20 or 12-12-12. That’s why we’ve created a blooming fertilizer specifically for bougainvillea called BOUGAIN®. With Bougain’s 6-8-10 plus Minors formula, Nitrogen levels are just right for flowering, but low enough to limit excessive green growth. In addition, Bougain® contains 5% Iron — the secret for vibrant, beautiful color on bougainvillea.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_divider type=”dotted” margin_top=”5″ margin_bottom=”5″ animation_delay=”0″][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″] Salt Tolerance of Bougainvillea[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Good salt tolerance. [3][/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]pH Preference of Bougainvillea[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea does best with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Trimming, Pruning, and Pinching[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    What is the difference between trimming, pruning, and pinching a bougainvillea?

    The dictionary defines them as:

    • Prune: To cut or lop superfluous or undesired twigs, branches, or roots from.
    • Trim: To put into a neat or orderly condition by clipping, paring, pruning, etc.
    • Pinch: To remove or shorten (buds or shoots) in order to produce a certain shape of the plant, improve the quality of the bloom or fruit, or increase the development of buds.

    As you can see, pruning your bougainvillea is also an act of trimming it. Confused yet? Don’t be. Throughout our website and when responding to your questions in the forum, BGI uses “pruning” and “trimming” quite differently.

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h3″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Pruning[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]When BGI writes about pruning a bougainvillea, we mean the act of removing entire branches or major structural parts of the plant. This could be anywhere from several inches to several feet depending on the size of your bougainvillea. Pruning is performed with pruning shears. Pruning a bougainvillea is recommended when entire branches are deterring from the overall shape of the plant, or jeopardizing the structural integrity of the bougainvillea.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_gallery layout=”gallery” image_size_gallery=”medium” gallery_columns=”4″ gallery_links=”lightbox” animation_delay=”0″]567|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Prune_Step-1-BGI-150×150.jpg,568|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Prune_Step-2-BGI-150×150.jpg[/cmsms_gallery][cmsms_heading type=”h3″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Trimming[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]When BGI writes about trimming a bougainvillea, we mean removing just the ends of branches or shoots. This could be anywhere from an inch to several feet, depending on the size of your plant. Trimming can be performed with hedge shears – either hand-held or electric & gas powered for very large plants. Hand-held hedge shears are recommended for a clean edge and for precise trimming. For professional landscapers trimming miles of bougainvillea, gas-powered hedge shears are very efficient, and get the job done nicely.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_gallery layout=”gallery” image_size_gallery=”medium” gallery_columns=”4″ gallery_links=”lightbox” animation_delay=”0″]569|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trimming_Step-1-BGI-150×150.jpg,570|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trimming_Step-2-BGI-150×150.jpg[/cmsms_gallery][cmsms_heading type=”h3″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Pinching[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]When BGI writes about pinching, we mean removing just the very tip of new shoots. Since new shoots are only a few inches in length (that goes for all sizes of bougainvillea), pinching the tip requires removing just an inch or less. New shoots are usually green, soft, pliable, contain tiny leaves or the beginning formation of a bud at the very tip, and ‘snaps’ off easily when pinched. Pinching is usually performed by hand. It can also be done simultaneously while trimming – for any act of removing the tip of new shoots is called pinching, whether by hand or cutting tool. If you do not want to trim your bougainvillea and only want to pinch it, it will have to be done with a pair of compact hand shears or by hand. Wearing gardening gloves is recommended when pinching by hand.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_gallery layout=”gallery” image_size_gallery=”medium” gallery_columns=”4″ gallery_links=”lightbox” animation_delay=”0″]563|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Pinch_Identify-New-Shoots-BGI-150×150.jpg,565|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Pinch_Step-1-BGI-150×150.jpg,566|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Pinch_Step-2-BGI-150×150.jpg,564|https://www.bgi-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Pinch_Pinched-Bougainvillea-Shoot-BGI-150×150.jpg[/cmsms_gallery][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea may be pruned, trimmed, and pinched at any time of the year. Bloom initiation does not depend upon trimming – a bougainvillea has a bloom cycle followed by a rest period whether trimmed or not. However, trimming or pinching is recommended after the end of each blooming cycle or at the beginning of the rest period to promote branching and budding for the next bloom cycle. A bougainvillea, like most vining-type plants, will continue to grow outward without sending out side branches from each leaf-bud point unless the stem is trimmed or pinched. If you want one long stem, then don’t pinch out the tip. By pinching out the tip, most bougainvillea cultivars will send out new stems from 2 to 3 leaf-buds below the cut, giving you a fuller plant with more buds. Some varieties do not send out any new stems, so their appearance is always stringy or bare. So it is important when growing a bougainvillea, not to wait for the branches to grow very far beyond your desired size before you remove all the tips – either with shears or hand-pinching — otherwise, the growth will be bare in the center of the plant, and the overall look will be misshapen.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Planting In Containers[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    Generally, bougainvillea can be grown in anything that will hold soil and allow proper drainage. Some of the more traditionally used containers include terra cotta (clay) pots, plastic pots, hanging baskets, wire baskets lined with sphagnum moss or fibrous liners, concrete planters, planter boxes, and bushel baskets. When BGI was on a bougainvillea exploration trip through Southeast Asia, we saw beautiful bougainvillea growing out from old laundry baskets and tires! Just remember that the container MUST have proper drainage. If you place your pot directly on the ground, the roots may emerge from drainage holes and find their way into the earth. To prevent this, place wooden slats or four bricks (in a T-design) under the pot. The air will naturally prune the roots that are exposed.

    It’s very important to remember that a bougainvillea does not tolerate standing in water. Whatever container you choose, consider these tips:

      • Drainage: Bougainvillea must have it.
      • Insulation: Avoid using black containers in full sun.
      • Large enough: The container must be large enough to hold the minimum amount of soil required for mature plants to grow in.
      • Weight: Will it be too heavy to move? Use broken pieces of clay pots or recycle styrofoam packing peanuts to line the bottom of the container rather than filling it fully with soil mix. This should also help with drainage and keeping drainage holes clear of debris.

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Repotting Bougainvillea[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]A bougainvillea blooms best when pot-bound so do not be tempted to re-pot unless you must. It is best to leave the plant in its original container until the roots have replaced all of the soil and you can’t keep the plant well watered. For example, it is not unusual to grow a bougainvillea in a 1 gallon pot for three or more years. When it is necessary to re-pot remember that a bougainvillea has a very delicate root system and a fragile root to stem connection. Handle bougainvillea with care. Root pruning is not recommended when re-potting bougainvillea – in fact, disturb the roots as little as possible because the plant might go into shock and take weeks to recover. Bougainvillea love to be pot-bound, so pot in the smallest container available for the purpose you desire. Re-pot into larger pot sizes gradually. For example, move a plant in a 6″ pot into a 9″ or 10″ pot. Several years later, you can then move up to a 14″ pot. The root system needs time to grow into each new pot.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Frost Tolerance[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]Bougainvillea require winter protection when temperatures fall below freezing (32F), and in some cases below 40F if there is accompanying wind. A light frost will not kill a mature bougainvillea, but may for a young planting. As quickly as one day or up to one week after the frost, it is normal for all the bougainvillea leaves and bracts to drop. Any remaining foliage on the plant may have brown or black edges to them, giving them a burnt appearance. We call this tip-burn or frost-burn. Cold winds have “burned” the leaves that have lost too much water through transpiration. In this case, the plant will re-grow, but only if not subjected to further frosts for longer durations.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Winter Protection[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]You have two options when deciding what to do with your tropical bougainvillea in times of frost or freeze. Both options give you about the same level of success rate – moderate to high. The more mature and healthy the plant…the better chances of survival during Winter months.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″]Wintering Over Bougainvillea Indoors[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    For bougainvillea in pots, they can be wintered over in basements, garages, or other cool and lower light areas. Under these conditions they go into a dormancy state and defoliate. Occasional watering during dormancy (once or twice a month) is needed until they start to grow again in the Spring where they once again need to be moved into high light. The other option is not to force them into a dormancy state, and place them indoors on a sunny south facing windowsill. You will have to water them more frequently – about as often as a houseplant – and they probably will not have any color. You may see a bract or two sporadically appear, but more likely than not, it will look like a common green houseplant until spring when you can place it outdoors into high light.

    If you have planted your bougainvillea in the soil outdoors and want to dig it up and move it indoors for the winter, expect the plant to go into dormancy sooner than if it had been in a container — the root damage as a result of digging will be the cause rather than the cool weather — but the plant should survive this kind of transplanting. Make sure to dig as far away from the root system as you possibly can. It’s important not to sever the roots; take care to dig up the entire root ball and especially in one piece.

    For both options, after you bring it back outdoors in the Spring, prune back any dead or damaged stems, and begin watering and fertilizing again. Gradually increase light levels by placing in partial shade for the first few days and working up to direct sunlight by the second week.

    [/cmsms_text][cmsms_heading type=”h1″ font_weight=”400″ font_style=”normal” text_align=”default” target=”self” margin_top=”0″ margin_bottom=”20″ animation_delay=”0″] Winter Protection for Outdoor Bougainvillea[/cmsms_heading][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]When bougainvillea are planted in the landscape and cannot be moved, you can protect it by covering and applying water or heat. Cover bougainvillea and the surround soil around the plant with thermal covers made for plants – aka. plastic sheeting, frost cloths. A trick for applying heat is to drape lit, outdoor holiday lights prior to covering with thermal covers. Do not use lights without a cover! If the plant is left exposed to the wind, the heat from the light will dry out the plant even further. Use lights and covers only at the coldest and windiest times of day/night. Turn off lights and uncover when threat of frost is over. Keep outdoor bougainvillea well watered in frost or freezing weather. Frost injury occurs when ice crystals form on the leaf surface drawing moisture from the leaf tissue. The damage from this dehydration will be less severe if the plant is not already drought-stressed.[/cmsms_text][cmsms_text animation_delay=”0″]

    Sources:

    [1] Simon, Eric. “Brighten Up With Bougainvillea” 2005

    [2] Schoelhorn, Richard and Alavrez, Erin.

    “Warm Climate Production Guidelines for Bougainvillea”.

    University of Florida/ IFAS Extension. October 1, 2002.

    [3] Knox, Gary W. and Black, Robert J.

    Salt Tolerance of Landscape Plants for South Florida. Table 5. Salt Tolerance of Vines.
    University of Florida/ IFAS Extension. Reviewed March 2000

    [4] Braswell, Gordon. “Gordon Braswell’s Bougainvillea Information”.

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